28 Days in Japan
By now, friends who have been following Su’s posts in the social media would have known that we were in some cities in Japan last week, again, having good food and wine, or having fun in general. We are back from our third trip in as many months since May, spending 28 days in all, mostly between the two of us in small cities and rural townships, most of which places I doubt we would visit again in the short to medium term, much as we had thoroughly enjoyed ourselves in the last three months. for practical and economic reasons.
Su had planned these trips mostly by herself, reading up travel literature, guide books and internet information, sometimes with advice from friends. She had begun initially with cities and areas north of Kansai, because I had to be in Kobe, following the JR west railway line, learning about Japan and how to live and travel in Japan as we went. In the end, we spent most of our time in small cities in two adjacent prefectures, namely Shimane and Tottori on the southwest of Honshu Island bordering the coast, facing the Sea of Japan. Geographically, Shimane is north of Hiroshima and Tottori, north of Okayama, being two amongst the 47 prefectures in the country.
Shimane Prefecture is the second least populous prefecture of Japan, with a population of around 666,000. Matsue is its capital and the largest city, other major and better-known cities include Izumo, Hamada and Masuda. Matsue has an estimated population of 203,000, and has Lake Shinji as a major attraction, apart from being home to the Tokugawa-era Matsue Castle, one of the last surviving feudal castles in Japan. Izumo’s population is about 173,000 with its famous shrine Izumo Taisha and its home-made sake, inexpensive and fresh. Masuda has a population of 44,000 and is often mentioned together with Tsuwano, a town with only 6,600, popularly known as “Little Kyoto” and known for its picturesque main streets with koi ponds and rivers, the Tsuwano Catholic Church and the Santa Maria Chapel at Otome Pass. It also boasts a more than 100-year old train operated on a steam engine, and still running for tourists.
Turning to Tottori Prefecture, it is the least populous prefecture with an estimated population at 538,000. Tottori city is its largest, and is the capital with about 193,000 people. Other major cities include Yonago (146,000), Kurayoshi (48,000) and Sakaiminato (32,000).
On this last trip – from 12th to 19th – we focused on Matsue (three nights), Masuda (one night), Tsuwano (two nights) and Yonago (one night). We had sunny days throughout and we learnt that we had escaped the typhoon and black rainstorms of Hong Kong. Su had posted highlights of the trip on Facebook, as they took place in timely fashion, complete with photos and added a post-trip blog with her thoughts on travelling in general and the differences with ageing in particular. I had kept notes on the phone during the period and had not intended to repeat them here, but on second thought, and mindful of the situation that this could be our last trip to these well-trodden paths, I have decided to make this blog longer than usual and to dwell on some unusual aspects in particular.
First, the departure. We got up early, at 5 am, so that we could leave by 6 am by taxi for the airport, Su having agreed to take Shirley and her two sons to the Centurion Lounge before their early flight – around 9 am – to Shanghai. Everything went clockwork and we rendezvoused with Shirley and the kids well before 7 am. Alas, we were too early. They ran a system which only admits members departing within three hours. Our flight departure time being 10:55 am, we would only be admitted at or after 7:55 am. The staff advised we parked ourselves at the Plaza Premium lounge next door, and so we did. The kids were rather excited, and we stayed there until we could double back to the AE Lounge where we were duly admitted and given a room, first time for everyone.
Shirley had bubblies and stayed until 8:20ish before leaving us, after which we retreated into the main lounge and stayed for an hour or more before taking our flight after stopping at Duty Zero for two bottles. The flight was nearly full, and Su had ordered food which was OK. We landed at 15:45ish Japan time, and it was a pleasant flight. We were amongst the first passengers at immigration. Just as Su was through, someone called me from behind. It was Irene Wong, Mark San’s wife. I first met Mark and Irene on my trip to South America and Antarctica, in early 2008. They were a loving couple. Mark was over 30 years her senior and passed away at 96, a few years ago. Irene had told Su that she is keeping his ashes at home.
I was so pleasantly surprised to see her. She said she thought she saw Su, and so on. She was traveling in a group of seven, with his son Ken who had come back from Melbourne with his friend Jamie who had worked in Yonago before, and is now a tour organizer, or sort of. We were planning to either take a taxi or a bus to the Nono hotel in Matsue when Irene learned that we were staying in the same hotel. Furthermore, she had organized two cars and might be able to take us, which they did indeed. It came to pass that we got on Jamie’s car with Irene. The other car was driven by Costello and carried his friend Fanny, Michael Shum and Heidi, and Irene’s son Ken. Michael Shum is the founder of the Wine Society at KCC and is quite somebody there apparently. Heidi is his wife. Apparently, Costello and Jamie knew each other well.
Su had planned to dine at the Sushi restaurant in Matsue which we had used in May and July. This was the one operated by father and son and offered good sushi and sashimi. On our way, Su asked Jamie to call the restaurant for a table of ten, but it didn’t work. They couldn’t handle so many at such short notice. We arrived Nono hotel at Matsue before 5:30 pm. It rained a bit on the way, but Jamie had checked that it would be fine from the next day onward. As soon as the car pulled up, Su dashed out to the restaurant and secured two seats for us, in her full trader colour. We had a good dinner, our third meal since May, at 27,000 yen.
In Japan, 13th to 15th August is the Obon Festival, the equivalent of our Ghost Festival in Chinese, when people would visit their ancestral graves, which was what Irene was doing this time, taking his son Ken to the home town of Mark San. There was no need to sweep his grave as such because Mark’s ashes were in Hong Kong.
Matsue was familiar territory for us. This was our third visit, but our first stay in Nono Hotel. In the last two, we had stayed in the New Urban Hotel. Su had paid the hotel upfront 103,000 yens for three nights. The next day, we got up just before 5 am, but there was no sunrise as such. We decided to go for a hot spring dip at 5:30 am and to have breakfast at 6:15 am. The restaurant offered a full range of Japanese food. We were here last night for Ramen but Su wasn’t too impressed and didn’t have much. She later complained about being hungry though. We finished breakfast at 7:30 am and after the morning routines, plunged back to bed until 9:50 am before we ventured outside. It was cooler than the last time we were here, but it was still 30°C. We began walking at 10:45 am towards the JR train station, parking ourselves at Starbucks at 11:15 am pondering the next steps. By noon, Su had bought four day passes for the next two days, and we started walking and shopping, ending in Aeon, back and forth, spending money on two pairs of shoes, four sweaters and two peaches, before returning to the station for Ramen at Kakeru. We had been talking about eating there since May. The chef, or one of them, recognized my tee and told me he’s a Rotarian in Matsue of D2690. We ate from 1:30 pm and then bought a bottle of sake at a shop at the mini mall, just missing the bus by one minute. We waited at Starbucks again as Su bought some coffee beans and studied the train schedules.
Shortly after 5:10 pm, we arrived on foot at a steak house at the ground level of a museum-like building for dinner. We ordered food and drinks and had a full meal with plenty of skirt beef steak and some other parts. We left at 6:20 pm and tried to catch the city bus which never turned up. Instead we walked along the Matsue River Terrace for photos and some sunset shots. On our walk back Nono Hotel, Su stopped at her favorite curiosity shop for some shopping, mainly lacquer stuff.
The next day, we went for our hot spring dip before 6 am and took the 6:30am breakfast session. There were many more hotel guests waiting and it looked like a fine day. Meanwhile, Hong Kong was having T1 and thunderstorms. After
breakfast and while returning to room from bath around 8:15 am, I ran into Fanny and Costello who walked into the lift from 5/F which was the level Irene’s party all stayed on. Su came back still tired, and detailed me to say hello with the group who were having breakfast. Irene said they had problems finding eateries that could hold all of them. One more was joining their group today, making eight. She would return Hong Kong on 22nd. Meanwhile, it was black rainstorm warning back home, which had caused flight delays for their friend. We slept in till 11 am and went downstairs for coffee until it was past 11:30 am and walked to the sushi restaurant for a light lunch, arriving just before noon. It was our fourth visit and we were the only guests. We spent only half of what we spent Tuesday evening. It was 1 pm and Su decided to do some shopping. I stayed in the room and slept for an hour. Su returned happily with batik purchases. Later on, we took a bus to the history museum after chatting up with Irene’s group. They were picking up Costello’s son, whose flight was delayed because of the black rainstorms in HK. Su bought a book at Museum. We took a bus back, had coffee in hotel as Su chatted up Michael Shum. In the evening, we walked to the fusion food restaurant which we had used before. There were no new surprises, but Su was happy that we were allowed to order our own food this time. So that was how we spent three days in Matsue, leisurely and lazily, eating and drinking, and soaking our bodies in hot spring. Next stop, Masuda.
Su had bought the 11:16 am fast train to Masuda. It was to be an over two-hour journey. We checked out and got a taxi to JR station, arriving by 10am, for only 810 yen. It was too early, so we parked ourselves at our favourite Starbucks; the ramen shop won’t open till 10:30 am. We waited till it was time for boarding, as we learned once more how to match train and cars. The journey time was to be two hours seven minutes. Getting on and off trains demanded quick action. Our hotel was close to the train station. Since we had arrived too early for checking-in, we had lunch at the hotel. It was a rather small room, but since we would only stay for one night in Masuda, it wouldn’t matter. We looked forward to the two nights in Tsuwano, both are very small and thinly populated cities and towns anyway. Su slept long after the hot spring bath and I wasn’t exactly sure what was on her mind. it wouldn’t matter anyway. Eventually we set off on foot around 5:30 pm towards the Grand Toit, or Shimane art centre and then walked back, but didn’t go directly back to the hotel. Su had an idea and walked us to a quirky and quiet street for an eatery, except that joint wasn’t open. We both ended up soaking wet and had to take the bath again. Finally, at 1945 h, we ordered a beer at the restaurant before ordering food. The two-hour walk had whetted our appetite and we finished the meal just before 9 pm. Never before did we have meals in Japan that cheap, below 6,000 yen, the earlier lunch was 7,500.
Morning came, we got off the hotel at 9:25 am for a taxi to a shrine, at 1,610-yen, Japan Heritage Iko-ji Temple 医光寺 where we paid 500 yen each for admission. Nobody was there initially. The temple housed the ancestral tablets and relics of the Masuda family which ruled the area for many years. Su negotiated with the driver to pick us up at 11 am from another shrine nearby 万福寺to which we walk on foot and paid 500 yen each as before. This time, we were the only visitors throughout. The driver arrived at 11 am as planned and took us to the art museum, for 810yen, and was to return to pick us up again at 12:40 pm.
We paid 1,300 yen for admission, at tourist rate, and visited the Izumi Kato Road to Somebody exhibition, at the Iwami Art Museum till 11:40 am and ate at Museum cafe. A taxi arrived after lunch, but with another driver, who took us to the hotel to retrieve our bags before taking us to train station, for about 1,200 yen. Having bought tickets from a machine, we waited for the train which arrived at 1327 h. Mindful of the number of people at the station, we queued up early for 30 minutes. The journey time was slightly over 30 minutes. It was only two stops away. There was no elevator at Tsuwano station. I was lucky to meet a young lady at the station who carried my bag down to ground level. We got on a taxi to the hotel, for 810yen. Once again, it was too early for checking-in.
Yutorelo Tsuwano Hotel has an outdoor stream with koi and anyone can feed the fishes or carps anytime with the feeds they can pick up for 100 yen. Su learned later that hotel guests needed not pay, after she had paid for two bags. Onsen opens at 3 pm, and afternoon cakes and drinks were available freely. We went to Lawson for two cup noodles and food for 1,000+ yens, primarily for the purpose of getting sufficient small changes, for the hotel doesn’t carry changes.
It was Sunday. I had checked out earlier that the Catholic Church, which was within sight from our hotel room, would have a Sunday service at 10 am, and I was determined to attend the service. Su had booked the 7:30 am breakfast session. There were no sunrise sights and we had an uneventful Japanese style breakfast. Su wanted to make a round as I completed my morning routines. Eventually, we attended Mass. There were 12 others, including a child and a visitor. The congregation applauded as I told them we were from Hong Kong. After Mass, we visited the St Mary’s chapel and museum next door before walking to and up the shrine which was quite a climb for me. We made to the top by 11:40 am and took pictures. Coming down was slightly quicker, about 10 minutes. We then walked back to the hotel, but not before stocking up for beer and simple groceries, and making a booking for 5:30 pm at the sushi restaurant opposite the hotel.
After a quick shower, we had instant noodles, beer and bean sprouts. Then I had a nap while Su had hot spring bath in-room. I did that later. By 3:30 pm, Su asked me to join her for the Steam train arrival ritual, which we did. We took lots of pictures before walking to a wine shop for a bottle of local sake. Back to hotel, we had some snacks and sake downstairs before going for the Sushi restaurant next door, which turned out to be such pleasant surprise. The food was excellent and good value. We spent only 8,400 yen when we were expecting to spend double the amount. Su was more than well pleased.
It was our last day in Tsuwano. We got up early to prepare for the 1003 h train to Yonago. We had the same problem at the train station as before: no elevator. A two-car train arrived and since Su had booked seats, we got into Car No. 1.
It was reverse journey, and the fast train took three hours 15 minutes to do the 200km journey. We arrived Yonago train station at 1:22 pm and Su decided to grab a bite at the station before taking a taxi to ANA Hotel, arriving just before 2 pm, for only 740y en taxi fare. We checked in room 916, highest floor, but smaller room compared with the 523-corner room. It’s all Deja vu.
Once again, we went out to the supermarket for peaches and sake, used the machine to get rid of coins and get more smaller changes. Back in room, I set up our private fridge and got myself a drink. Su came back and we shared one peach. I then took a power nap. It was probably 5:30 pm when we set out towards the Takashimaya mall direction, looking for a beef shop. We found it, but it was full. Su tried to get in the Mall, but it was already closed. Su later found another restaurant and had dinner for just under 10,000 yen. Su said, not bad, which was what mattered. After dinner, we walked back and opened the bottle of sake we still had with us in the private fridge and spent the night idling and bonding. I didn’t particularly sleep well, having been woken up few times with weird dreams.
This would be our last day in Yonago, and we couldn’t see we would be back for quite some time, until and unless GBA resumes these flights; and this was our third time in Yonago since May. We got up at 5 am, the sky above Dashan was lighting up with a red tinge, but nothing special or stunning. After watching it a bit, even Su decided to go back to sleep. We got up again at 6:30 am to prepare to go to breakfast. I took a shower and started to pack. After breakfast, we started to drink sake, and clear our private fridge, thus signaling Su’s last phase of packing. The plan was to check out by 11 am, left luggage, walked to Takashimaya, either walked back or grab a taxi back for the 1:30 pm shuttle bus to airport, we having purchased tickets yesterday at reception at 640 yen each.
By 1125 h, I was already parked on 5/f resting while Su had her last minute shopping.
The 5/f lounge is a rather spacious room and can house 30 people in groups of one, two to six. There’s even a massage chair. It offers refreshment, coffee, tea, soft drinks and water, with some very simple snacks, such as peanuts and sweets. It’s a good hospitality facility for 500 yen per person. This was my second visit; and in both times I was here, there’s hardly any users, not more than three to five. Su showed up at 12:40 pm, time to go, after the tax refund. Taxi back wasn’t a problem. We were back at ANA before 1 pm to rearrange and pack the newly acquired goods and to get ready to board the shuttle bus. The bus showed up at 1:27 pm and departed promptly at 1:30 pm, arriving airport at 1411 h. Checking in completed by 1430 h, and immigration wasn’t ready until 15 minutes later. As with last time, we bought two bottles of whiskey and two bottles of sake. The flight was on time, but Hong Kong weather was such that the takeoff could be delayed by 20 to 30 minutes. Around 1640 h, plane was moving; and the expected flight time was three hours 11 minutes. The plane took off and was airborne by 5 pm; and landed at 7:21 pm Hong Kong time. Finally, we got on Airport Express at 2023 h.
Since back, I have been busy catching up with work and friends and with filling up our diaries. We probably need another holiday to wind down.
